Make the skirt the focal point of your outfit. Opt for prints, pleats or an asymmetric hemline, but don’t stick to neutral tops: be bold and mix up colours
Jemma wears top, £69, and skirt, £85, both kitristudio.com. Shoes, £115, senso.com.au. Sunglasses, £175, illesteva.com. Stylist’s assistant: Bemi Shaw. Hair: Vimal Chavda using Bumble and bumble. Makeup: Alexis Day using Bioderma and Essie. Models: Valerie and Elee at Mrs Robinson, Laura at Bookings, Bobola at Wild and Jemma at M+P.
MILAN (Reuters) – What do you get when luxury fashion meets sport? $10,000 sneakers.
High-end brands such as Kering’s Gucci, Prada <1913.HK> and Balenciaga are increasingly looking to sneakers for growth, putting them in direct competition with sportswear giants like Nike , Puma and Adidas , and giving rise to ever-more striking and expensive designs.
Luxury groups say they are now increasing investments and marketing budgets to face down their new opponents.
“When I saw sneakers were going to be a thing, I fought it for a bit,” Salvatore Ferragamo’sdesigner Paul Andrew said at a conference. “We’re definitely now investing heavily in that category, getting in very specialized people”.
Global sales of sneakers – or trainers – rose 10 percent to 3.5 billion euros last year, outperforming a 7 percent rise in handbags, according to consultancy Bain & Co.
“It’s not really even a trend anymore – it’s become a category,” said Bruce Pas, Men’s Fashion Director at U.S. department store Neiman Marcus.
Both luxury groups and sports companies are looking to cash in on a booming market. Premium sneakers can start at around $400 but can easily rise as high as $3,000, for a pair of Christian Louboutin’s leather, crystal-embellished sneakers.
Limited editions can sell for well over $10,000, including the Chanel X Pharrell Hu Race Trail or Nike’s Air Jordan 3 Retro DJ Khaled Grateful.
Sneakers are a big driver of the luxury shoe business, which accountancy firm EY says is the fashion industry’s fastest-growing area.
The rise of luxury sneakers is part of the growing influence of casual and streetwear in high-end fashion, where it is now acceptable to team sneakers with a tailored suit.
Upmarket brands are tapping into street style to refresh their looks and young buyers are driving the shift. “Millennials” – born between the early 1980s and mid-90s – already represent a third of the luxury market, according to Bain.
Several luxury group executives recently noted the importance of sneakers for their business and the need to step up their game to face the rising competition.
Emilio Macellari, finance chief of Italian luxury goods company Tod’s – a pioneer in the sector, having launched its first Hogan luxury sneaker in 1986 – said “there is no brand that is not currently considering its (sneaker) offer”.
Pointing out how times are changing, he said luxury brands were now “under attack” from sportswear companies, on top of the usual competition from their luxury peers.
But so-called “sneakerisation” could steal market share from more traditional and formal-looking footwear, industry operators say.
“After many seasons of comfortable shoes, it will be hard to bring women back on heels,” said Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Milan’s renowned la Rinascente department store.
BLUE SNAKE AND PROFIT MARGINS
In central Milan a pair of Nike’s black leather, ankle-high Air Jordan 5 Retro Premium sneakers sell for over 400 euros ($470). Only steps away, in one of the city’s most exclusive shopping areas, clients buy a pair of Gucci’s ACE made with the GG logo canvas, with a blue snake-leather detail for 450 euros.
“What has changed is competition, with a clear overlap,” said Claudia D’Arpizio, partner at Bain & Co. “Luxury consumers are buying Nike and Adidas and vice-versa”.
Ilaria, a young saleswoman in Milan streetwear shop One Block Down, said that many customers walk in carrying shopping bags from the nearby luxury boutiques.
Sports groups say they are not worried by the competition.
“If (luxury groups) go the sports way… it is only positive,” said Puma Chief Executive Bjorn Gulden said. “If that is a trend that pulls the sneaker market up, we can only be happy.”
Analysts also say the intensifying competition is unlikely to erode profit margins because the market is expanding.
“There is large space for prices moving up,” said Erwan Rambourg from HSBC. “The ‘luxurisation’ of sneakers could possibly impact margins positively”.
You may hate the travel, expenditures, and anxiety that goes into attending a summer wedding, but at least you can justify buying a new dress, right? Do yourself a favor and finally get one from celeb-favorite designer, Self-Portrait. Their flattering lace frocks have been worn by everyone from Jennifer Lopez to Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle, though I doubt J.Lo or the Duchess of Cambridge got theirs on sale. But that’s where you have a one-up on them, because a ton of Self-Portrait numbers are currently up to 40 percent off at Nordstrom’s massive bi-annual sale. Shop our favorite, budget-friendly picks ahead.
If you want one dress that will work for any type of wedding vibe, look to this sunny number.
Paneled Lace Minidress, $297
Unsure of the dress code? A short-sleeved dress is universally appropriate.
Lace Trim Handkerchief Hem Dress, $267
Make a conscious decision to wear a dress that twirls properly on the dance floor.
Trimmed Overlay Minidress, $276
You don’t have to wear a gown to a black tie wedding. An up-scale mini like this ticks off all your formal boxes.
Paneled Lace Dress, $297
Celebrate their union in a watermelon-hue mini dress that screams LOVE.
Plumetis Maxi Dress, $378
Wear this to a beach wedding with no shoes. Perfection.
Wave Lace Frill Minidress, $327
This neckline is just dramatic enough that it won’t distract guests from the bride.
Guipure Lace Cape Dress, $306
A cape dress can be worn over and over again.
Paneled Velvet Midi Dress, $306
Made of velvet but cut like a summer dress, this style will easily transition into fall and winter.
Khloé Kardashian has been taking a much-needed break from the limelight since giving birth to her first child, True, earlier this year. While we understand the reality star is enjoying her “mommy and me” time out of the spotlight, we can’t help but miss seeing her stepping out every day in a variety of insanely chic outfits. Hopefully Khloé will be back with a sartorial bang soon, but until then we’re celebrating her killer style by taking a look back at some of her best looks. From her sizzling red carpet dresses to her stylish off-duty ensembles, click through to see all of Khloé’s best style moments.
Khloé in LA in 2018
The reality star showed off her growing bump in a skin-tight nude dress, duster coat, and Yeezy lace-up boots.
Khloé at a Good American Event in 2017
We’re obsessed with how chic Khloé’s all-black look is.
Khloé in NYC in 2017
Khloé rocked black zip-up Good American jeans and a black tank as she hit the streets of New York City.
Khloé at the Angel Ball in 2016
The mother-of-one looked stunning in a silver Yousef Al-Jasmi gown.
Khloé in LA in 2016
She showed off her killer off-duty style in ripped Good American jeans, a leather jacket, and a brown fedora.
Khloé at the Good American Launch in 2016
Khloé rocked a sheer Gooseberry Intimates bodysuit and a pair of her Good American jeans for the event.
Khloé in Miami in 2016
Khloé showed off her figure in a nude camo shirt, skin-tight skirt, and lace-up booties.
Khloé at a House of CB Event in 2016
She sizzled in a bold orange House of CB dress and Christian Louboutin pumps.
Khloé in Las Vegas in 2016
Khloé rocked another House of CB dress for a night at the club.
Khloé at the NBC Upfronts in 2016
The Keeping Up With the Kardashians star sizzled in a lace-up Balmain dress and matching Christian Louboutin heels.
Khloé in Las Vegas in 2016
Khloé showed off her curves in a skin-tight sequin jumpsuit.
Khloé in NYC in 2016
She sported a House of CB duster coat and sleek black jumpsuit for the event.
Long gone are the days when certain items of clothing were reserved for certain seasons. Seasonless dressing is now here to stay, whether that means florals in the snow, velvet in the spring, or boots in the summer.
There are a few advantages that come with wearing boots year round. The practice hides chipped pedicures and extends the wear of what can be a pricey purchase—not to mention that boots actually look really great with summery dresses
Below, our favorite boots for spring, summer, fall, whenever.
Few women have had as much impact on the fashion industry(or the world, in general) as Princess Diana. Always immaculately dressed, Lady Di’s wardrobe was envied and emulated the world over, particularly during the late eighties and early nineties.
To this day, Diana’s refined elegance is a noted point of reference for many designers—in fact, just last year, Virgil Abloh created an entire collection for Off White inspired by the People’s Princess.
From her chic shift dresses to her penchant for well-cut blazers, several of Diana’s most-iconic outfits have stood the test of time, and still feel as relevant today, as they did on the day she wore them.
Here, we recount 25 of Princess Diana’s most timeless looks.
As sustainable fashion goes mainstream, multiple designers are turning to fungi for compostable attire
Over the past three years, the fashion industry has started paying attention to biodegradable and renewable fabrics. Last year, Salvatore Ferragamo used a citrus byproduct material that feels like silk for a collection of shirts, dresses and pants; Philippines-based AnanasAnam created a faux-leather out of pineapple leaves dubbed Piñatex; and Dutch textile designer Aniela Hoitink created a mycelium dress that was as stylish as any satin cocktail dress.
Yes, mycelium—the interlocking root system that spawns forests of mushrooms in your yard after it rains. And this fungi fashion seems to be a trend: Microsoft’s Artist-in-Residence Erin Smith grew her own wedding dress out of tree mulch and mycelium; lighting designer Danielle Trofe uses mycelium to create biodegradable light fixtures; and Life Materials sells sheets of its mycelium leather for anyone interested in a do-it-yourself creation.
Jillian Silverman, a University of Delaware fashion and apparel graduate student focused on environmental sustainability, recently crafted a prototype shoe that combines mushrooms, agriculture waste and fabric scraps. “A lot of fashion fabrics are not compostable or it takes a really long time for them to break down,” says Silverman. In her shoe, “everything is natural, everything is biodegradable, nontoxic. It’s a perfect solution to reducing the impacts of textile waste, reducing toxic inputs and using all renewable inputs.”
Because mushroom mycelium has previously been used to create compostable packaging and building materials, Silverman thought there was a good chance it could be grown into fashion products to replace other unsustainable materials in the fashion industry. Her university is also conveniently close to Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, is “the mushroom capital of the world,” says Silverman. “So this offers opportunities for local sourcing and the expertise of the nearby mushroom farms and growers.”
Mycelium naturally binds together materials—in the shoe’s case, chicken feathers and other textile—as it grows. After testing, Silverman decided to use reishi, oyster, king oyster, and yellow oyster varieties for their superior aesthetic and strength. She then designed a shoe sole mold in which to grow the mycelium into the specific shape needed. Mycelium can grow to fill any mold in about a week. Once it filled the mold, Silverman baked it to “halt the growth and prevent mushrooms from fruiting on the surface.”
“There is only a slightly earthy smell during the growing process,” says Silverman. “There is no live fungi in the finished product.”
Huantian Cao, Silverman’s graduate advisor, says the challenge was creating the perfect growth mixture for the mycelium to thrive. To do this, Silverman tested several fabrics and decided upon an insulation material comprised of recycled cotton and jute, a rough fiber similar to twine or rope. This material, which would otherwise be destined for a landfill, created a strong material as it intertwined and bonded with the fibers during its growth stage.
Other components in the final mycelium substrate included psyllium husk (a natural plant fiber), cornstarch (which acted as food sources for the mycelium) and chicken feathers (which added strength to the final product).
“Both the textile material and feathers are soft, but strong,” says Cao, a professor of fashion and apparel studies and co-director of the University of Delaware’s Sustainable Apparel Initiative. “Including these materials in mycelium composite makes the composite comfortable to wear and also strong to step on.”
According to Silverman, the end result is a compostable, biodegradable mushroom-based sole that could replace rubber and other manmade components. But if it’s a compostable material, what happens if you wear the shoe in the rain?
John Taylor, professor of plant and microbial biology at the University of California at Berkeley, believes that unless the shoe sole is treated to prevent water intrusion, it’s far from ready to wear.
“There is likely a trade-off in durability versus compostability,” says Taylor, who isn’t involved in Silverman’s project. “Mycelium would absorb water if untreated, leading to degradation of shoe soles but promoting compostability. If the mycelium is treated to prevent absorption of water, the shoe sole function would be improved, but the compostability would decline.”
Silverman says that compostable products cannot compost without the correct conditions and organisms, so the soles shouldn’t just biodegrade during use. “Mycelium is naturally water-resistant so we believe if we let it grow to fully cover the substrate materials that the shoes would be able to tolerate at least some moisture,” says Silverman, though she does admit that “we do have some concerns about the flexibility of the material.”
While Silverman’s product may need some fine-tuning before it is market-ready, a California-based materials innovation startup called Bolt Threads is already accepting pre-orders for its mushroom “leather” bag in June. The company is known for creating its Microsilk fabric by copying spider silk gene technology. Through a new partnership with Ecovative Design, a company that created mycelium-based packaging and industrial-based materials, Bolt Threads Co-Founder Dan Widmaier is excited about the possibilities of renewable, sustainable fabrics, especially one that has the ability to replace leather and possibly lessen leather’s carbon footprint.
“If you think about leather, you’ve got a product there that is from the waste stream of the meat industry,” says Widmaier. “Then you look at a future with 7 billion inhabitants on Planet Earth, growing to 10 billion … there’s just not enough skins and hides to make leather.” That’s what makes mycelium a sustainable solution, says Widmaier, who points out the contrast between producing mycelium and raising an animal for meat/leather.
“Mycelium is growing on a celluloise feedstock – in our case, corn stover (the leaves, stalks and cobs leftover in a field after a harvest),” he says. “That’s a pretty low impact compared to raising a whole animal for three years when you look at the sustainability profile of water use, land use, carbon cycle, nitrogen cycle.”
Stella McCartney, a designer known for her commitment to sustainable fashion, recently used Bolt Thread’s mycelium “leather” (branded as Mylo) for a handbag trimmed in metal chain at the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Fashioned from Nature exhibit, which opened April 21.
While Widmaier’s company is a few steps ahead of Silverman, both are in agreement that mushrooms have a place in fashion. And both see a future where material innovation evolves and grows as more consumers realize that fashion can be on-trend both stylishly and sustainably—a future where fungi fabric is as common as silk or cotton. “Biowaste materials in general are gaining a lot of attention and a lot of traction in the sustainable fashion industry as well as other industries,” says Silverman.
Let’s hope so, because our current levels of consumer waste are frankly unsustainable. Every year, the average person throws away roughly 70lbs of clothing and other wearable waste like backpacks, broken watches and hats, according to the Council for Textile Recycling. The EPA estimates that textile waste make up 5 percent of all landfill space, with those dirty leather and rubber soles coexisting for upwards of 50 years surrounded by other consumer waste.
Lowering our waste levels will require all sectors of society to catch up. “For an industry where we make something like 80 billion units of apparel every year, we need new ways to make materials that are more long-term compatible with the planet and the environment,” says Widmaier.
Fashion Nova has the Kardashian family’s full support. All the sisters have worn pieces from the e-commerce retailer and posted a look or two on Instagram, of course. The biggest Fashion Nova fan, however, might be Kylie. The youngest Jenner posed for a photo while wearing a gray off-the-shoulder mini dress from the brand. It was short and sexy—exactly Kylie’s style. She captioned the snap, “Left my designer for this @FashionNova fit.”
Unlike Kylie’s usual designer outfits (lately she’s loving Fendi), this gray dress is only $28 and comes in four additional colors, including oatmeal and pastel pink. (Her gray option, sadly, appears to be sold out.) At the moment, Kylie’s Instagram photo has garnered over 2 million likes, which means the mini dresses won’t be in stock for long. Get yours asap, below.
Like most women, I don’t fit into the fashion industry — physically, I mean. I’m not straight-size or plus-size. I call myself an in betweeny, someone who falls in the middle of the spectrum: My breasts are big, and my hip bones are too.
Every time I walk into a store, I feel the pressure: Men should be more muscular, women should be slim. I understand that some physical appearances are genetically conceived as more or less attractive to the opposite sex (and therefore pushed into the public eye), but we have to start thinking about the consequences of our actions. In the United States alone, at least 30 million people of all ages and genders suffer from an eating disorder, and what we perceive to be “beautiful” and “healthy” more often than not translates to worthiness, or consequentially, the feeling that we’re not enough. And the fashion industry plays a role in that.
Last year, I walked the spring 2018 Alexander McQueen show. It was my first runway show, and being one of the only curvy models at Paris Fashion Week was a blast. But it took a long time to get there. Two years prior, I was scouted by a pretty well-known agency (which I will keep nameless): “Your face is, like, so amazing, babe,” they said to me. But then they touched the sides of my hips: “But, your body…you have to lose 10 cm. It’s too big.” To this day, I don’t get it and I don’t think I ever will. At the time, I was still recovering from years of fighting with my eating disorder. The weight I was then was not even my natural, healthy weight; I wasn’t eating enough. Still, this person told me to lose four inches in three months time, without any help. I didn’t look unhealthy, but I was.
Luckily for my own mental wellbeing, I chose to go to the curvy board — even though I’m not ‘plus-size’ by conventional standards. I chose to find a mother agency in the Netherlands that wanted to represent me at my normal size. Soon, I was doing a shoot for American Vogue. It was there I met Camilla Anderson, who works with Sarah Burton at McQueen. A week later, there I was — excited and scared, walking in a beautiful floral dress, in Paris. Since then, I’ve gotten more attention from designers, and my career hasn’t been the same.
The thing is, fashion just doesn’t add up with the rest of the world, especially when it comes to women’s sizing. In a real, healthy world, we don’t starve ourselves so we can fit into one dress. We don’t exercise for hours every day to get a beautiful “beach body,” whatever that is. From personal experience, I see my model friends being told to lose more and more weight. I was also guilty of this when I had my own problems eating. Now, I see the people that I thought were perfect were hurting their bodies. Your body is your vehicle in life, right? If you don’t put fuel in the gas tank of your car, it won’t run for long — it just doesn’t work that way.
Opposite of the straight-size, or “thin,” market, where girls are being sent away if they are ‘out of shape,’ the plus-size market tells their inbetweeny girls that more is better. Fun fact: We have to use padding to increase our sizes. As a model, I understand why that’s sometimes the case, but when I look at the bigger picture (pun intended), I worry that it sends the wrong message. Do I have to gain weight to be beautiful? To work? I’m not sure I want to know. When it comes to the requests of clients, one day you’re too big, and the next, not big enough. It isn’t as bad as it is for straight-sized girls, of course, who take permanent action to change their bodies, while I just put on some padding that makes my butt look a little bigger.
While people on the outside of the industry says it’s progressing, I think the modeling business is stagnated. Some fashion houses are still very strict with their sizing, and girls can still be sent home right before a fashion show because they aren’t ‘in-shape.’ And don’t even get me started on diversity. But slowly — as most things in fashion go — I do see designers adding more sizes to their show and campaign rosters (just look at McQueen). I applaud those — designers, models, and otherwise — who are brave enough to go against the grain.
But the most important thing I’ve learned is this: Know your body from the inside out. It’s okay to demand your own representation.
Welcome toMyIdentity. The road to owning your identity is rarely easy. In this yearlong program, we will celebrate that journey and explore how the choices we make on the outside reflect what we’re feeling on the inside — and the important role fashion and beauty play in helping people find and express who they are.
In places such as Singapore there didn’t use to be much choice of modest wear. Now specialist retailers, mass-market chains and online retailers offer a much wider range of clothing, and modest fashion has become a style choice
The co-founder of Selera Rasa Nasi Lemak and the Crave restaurant chain in Singapore recalls having a hard time finding appropriately modest, yet stylish outfits to wear.
“There weren’t many nice long-sleeved tops at that time and most modest clothing was found in Geylang or Joo Chiat, where our Malay community liked to shop. It was frustrating sometimes,” she says. “I basically just wore plain tops, as I didn’t know how else to dress.”
Today, Ikhsan’s Instagram feed tells a different story. Her #ootd pictures showcase her flair for dressing modestly, her traditional baju kurung (short jackets) and kebaya (light tunics) in trendy shades of mint green and millennial pink interspersed with outfits comprising oversized shirts and sweaters artfully thrown over maxi skirts.
Instagram posts by Shireen Ikhsan
These days, she shops at a mix of Muslim-centric retailers such as Fashion Valet, as well as at mainstream fast-fashion brands such as Zara, which she says offer a wider variety of modest clothing – stylish kaftans, long blouses and maxi dresses – than they did even a few years ago.
Times have certainly changed in Singapore for “hijabistas”, with retailers and fashion designers alike offering stylish designs that fulfil the criteria for modest clothing to which many Muslim women adhere.
One of Singapore’s most notable designers, Priscilla Shunmugam, recently launched her second annual Hari Raya collection for her label Ong Shunmugam, featuring modern interpretations of traditional Malay clothing.
Online retailers including Zalora and Lazada now have sections for Muslim wear on their sites. The former even has a “Zaloraya” section featuring festive modest wear for Hari Raya Puasa, the festival marking in the end of the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan which this year falls on June 15.
It is no coincidence that the market for modest wear in Singapore is growing at a time when the world has recognised the economic potential of the Muslim market. According to a study by Thomson Reuters, Muslims spent US$243 billion on clothing in 2015, a figure expected to increase to more than US$368 billion by 2021.
To capture the hearts – and wallets – of Muslim shoppers, international brands ranging from luxury labels Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci to mass-market brands Nike and Marks & Spencer have in the past few years begun producing collections to appeal to this community.
In Singapore, modest style is catching on. “While not as ubiquitous as in Malaysia and Indonesia, modest wear in Singapore has shown great potential,” says Christopher Daguimol, Zalora’s group director of public relations and social media.
Wearing something modest is no longer considered frumpy or boring, it is just a sort of cut or style
With a combined population of more than 300 million people, Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia make up the online retailer’s largest regional market for modest wear, he adds.
In 2014, Zalora launched its private label Zalia. It became the first modest wear label to have a catwalk show at Singapore Fashion Week the following year. In 2017, fashion week organisers dedicated an entire day to shows by modest wear designers from Asia and the Middle East, including Indonesia’s Dian Pelangi, Malaysian couturier Jovian Mandagie, and Bangladeshi label La Reve.
The event was seen as a launch pad for Singapore-based modest wear labels such as Nida Shay and Kaifiyyah. Nida Shay, born in Abu Dhabi and trained in Paris, saw sales of her eponymous label
increase by 60 per cent after showing in Singapore – her customers including Malaysian royalty – and says the focus on modest style was timely.
“There’s been a lot more conversation happening around modest wear being a huge market which will only grow further in years to come,” Shay says.
Such events are also a good way to reach out to different demographics. “Modest wear is fashionable and not for a particular race or faith. It is simply a style of fashion and it can be worn in lots of different ways by women from all over the world,” says Shay, who has clients in Europe, Canada, China and Korea.
“Wearing something modest is no longer considered frumpy or boring, it is just a sort of cut or style,” she adds.
One modest collection that has been particularly successful is Uniqlo’s collaboration with British-Japanese Muslim fashion designer Hana Tajima. Its sixth collection launches this summer. It debuted in 2015 in just four countries – Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand – but is now available in 15 markets globally.
“[The collection] aims to cater for women of all ages in diverse individual and cultural settings,” says Elizabeth Yap, assistant manager of marketing and public relations for Uniqlo in Singapore.
Indeed, more women in Singapore are beginning to adopt modest styles just because they like them. Vintage fashion blogger and digital specialist Uli Chan, who often incorporates vintage and pre-worn pieces in her daily outfits, says: “It’s just a style of dressing that I happened to adopt. I guess … my preferred styles simply tend to cover more surfaces of the body to create dramatic silhouettes.
“I gravitate towards flowy dresses and skirts, as they’re more comfortable and flattering for my body shape. I also notice that I feel more confident and at ease dressing modestly, as I barely have to worry about any unwanted exposure,” she says.
“Of course, I believe this is a personal choice and we are free to dress how we want to feel and to be perceived.”